How to Up Your Suit Swagger

Has this ever happened to you: You’re shopping for a suit and the jacket fits but the slacks don’t. Maybe you’ve got a body type that requires you to go up a size, because you’re upper or bottom half is larger than the other. Then up your suit swagger and consider going bespoke.

“It’s a customized suit made for the wearer from scratch to his unique specifications,” says Omer Esiner from House Of Bespoke. “[It’s an] investment that starts at $400 and can range up to $8,000, depending on the fabrics.” The end result is a perfect fit, which is mostly handmade. This is the cream of the crop in men’s fashion. Here’s what to look out for when making this purchase.

Do your homework. Look for one who specializes in made-to-order suits. If you opt for an online designer, compare them all and read customer reviews.

Ahhh, this is one of the beauties of going bespoke. You get to choose everything your suit will be made of and look like – from the materials to buttons to inner-jacket lining and sometimes even the thread. As for materials, choose durable and breathable fabrics such as linen and worsted wool, they’re constructed to circulate air. “Light wools and linen/silk blends are best for warmer climates,” Esiner says. Navy is a great all around choice, but if you’re feeling color – “bold brights [] trended this summer.” When talking about cut, it’s on you as well. You want a double-breasted jacket and cuffs? Or perhaps you’re a single breasted, three button man. The choice is yours. If you’re not really sure, then go for a timeless and classic design, like a two-button single breast – it’ll never go out of style.

After having your measurements taken it will usually be a week until your first fitting, followed by a few more visits. If you are purchasing your suit online (where you submit your sizes), it will require a trip to a tailor for final tweaks once received.

“Have the suit dry cleaned or steamed when received, allowing the fabric to settle,” recommends Esiner. “Hang it on a high quality suit hanger and allow it to breathe for a day before putting it in the closet.” If it gets dirty, spot clean it only. “Dry clean suits as little as possible, as the harsh chemicals used in dry cleaners will damage clothing over time.”

1. Avoid taking magazine tears to the tailor and asking to replicate a style, which can be disastrous. Rather, ask for a suit that’s inspired by it.
2. Take your dress shoes with you when being measured; it ensures the proper length.
3. Communicate any problem areas; a good tailor will advise you of what to do accordingly.
4. Have your measurements taken twice – it’s an old school rule that’ll result in total accuracy.