At one time or another it has probably happened to all of us. We get dressed for work; an interview or that special event with a crisp new suit. We look at ourselves in the mirror, and think…damn…that’s pretty sharp. Your mojo is flowing and then you arrive at your destination and realize your just one of many countless suits. Want to stand out, but in a good way? Try the simple yet effective pocket square. Thanks to shows like Mad Men, the pocket square has made a prominent return to men’s fashion. More importantly it’s a subtle way to help you stand out in the deep blue sartorial sea. Here are a few tips to help you get started.
One Style Does Not Fit All
There are many pocket square styles but all variations are born from one of the four basic types. The “square” fold, the “triangle” fold, the “multi-pointed” fold and the “puffed” fold.
Square Fold
Also goes by the name “straight” and/or “architect” fold, the square fold is as straight-forward as it gets and goes well with formal dress wear and slim cut suits (think classic two-button jacket with a vent and tapered slacks). According to Kimberly Law, personal image consultant and founder of Personal Impact Image Consulting, cotton or linen pocket squares are the best material for this type of fold as they are stiffer and provide the durability required for this type of structured fold.
How To Prepare a Square Fold
Step 1 – Lay your pocket square down flat.
Step 2 – Fold the left side over to the right, so the square is now in the shape of a rectangle.
Step 3 – Fold the bottom of the rectangle up to the top, but be sure to leave ½ inch of space before the end of the square.
Step 4 – Ready to insert into suit jacket pocket.
For a more detailed demonstration see the video below.
Triangle Fold
Quite a popular fold, also referred to as the “one point” fold. It is usually worn with your every day conservative single breasted suit. As with the square fold, cotton and linen pocket squares are best for this type of fold because of the structure.
How To Prepare a Triangle Fold
Step 1 – Lay your pocket square down flat, but rather than lay it down to appear as a square, lay it down so it looks like a baseball diamond.
Step 2 – Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner (think of folding home plate to meet second base). Your pocket square should now look like a triangle.
Step 3 – Fold the left corner to right center (think third base meets first base).
Step 4 – Fold the right corner to left center (think first base meets third base).
Step 5 – Your pocket square should now look like a rectangle with triangle on top.
Step 6 – Insert into suit jacket pocket triangle side down.
For a more detailed demonstration see the video below.
Multi Pointed Fold
Commonly known as a “four point” fold, but known to have many spin-offs such as the “two point” and “three point.” Associated with the dressier side of the men’s attire, it works well with double breasted suits and sports coats. Law also points out that the Multi-Point also works better with cotton or linen pocket squares as they provide more stability needed for a structured fold.
How To Prepare a Multi Pointed Fold
Step 1 – Lay your pocket square down flat, but in shape of a baseball diamond.
Step 2 – As with the triangle square. Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner, but the top corners should be slightly offset from each other. Your pocket square should now look like a triangle with two pointed tops.
Step 3 – Fold the left corner up to the top of the pocket square, next to the other two points. The result should be tree points.
Step 4 – Fold the right corner of the pocket square up to the top next to the three existing points. The result being four points.
Step 5 – Fold the remaining bottom portions over one another and then behind the four points.
Step 6 – Ready to insert into suit jacket pocket.
For a more detailed demonstration see the video below.
Puffed Fold
A style tailored more for the casual dress and sports coat look. Kimberly Law notes that silk pocket squares are best suited for this fold because the fold requires less structure and the material helps produce a less structured look (as opposed to square and triangle folds).
How To Prepare a Puffed Fold
Step 1 – Lay your pocket square down flat.
Step 2 – Grab the center of the square and pull up.
Step 3 – The points should dangle at the bottom, put your thumb and forefinger up to the top of the square to meet your other hand.
Step 4 – Cinch the square down to its midpoint. The result should be the top portion puffed and bottom portion with squares dangling.
Step 5 – Fold dangling portion behind puffed portion.
Step 6 – Ready to insert into suit jacket pocket.
For a more detailed demonstration see the video below.
In Living Color
Aside from knowing the folds for your panuelos it’s important to color coordinate them properly with your suit and tie.
Safe & Basic
When in doubt the simple and accepted rule of thumb is that a white pocket square will go with any suit, shirt and tie. They go especially well with a white shirt.
Get the Double Take
Say you want to venture out with a bit more color. Generally, the pocket square should match the color or hue of the tie. So, a grey pocket square is ok with a grey tie, etc. According to MensFashionTips.com, when you coordinate pocket squares with the same color tone as their tie or background color of the tie it will usually draw the attention from the face to across the chest.
For the Daring
Now if you really want to get complex and want to use pocket squares with patterns, be sure to compare the sizes of the patterns on your tie or suit with those on your pocket square. According to MensFashionTips.com, for small busy patterns on ties or dress shirts or even suits its best to use a larger scale pattern to counter. Similarly, big scale patterns on suits, dress shirts, or ties, then you should employ small scale or even tightly packed patterns to counteract.