Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve probably noticed that the men’s fedora hat (and its many variations) has made a comeback in recent years. Whether at the clubs, on the beach or during a causal weekend, men are rocking them regularly. If you’re too old for the jeans dragging off your ass look, tried the velvet blazer-graphic-tee-jeans combo and even rocked a guayabera at the salsa club, but have decided it’s time to elevate your style, look no further than this simple accessory. But beware: adding the right hat to your style rotation is not as easy as it looks.
The Basics
Before you select and purchase, know the basics. Every fedora styled hat consists of the crown (the top), band (decorative material that runs around the body) and brim (bottom portion).
Aside from the structure, every hat will have a level of “tapering,” which is essentially how narrow or wide the crown of the hat is compared to its brim. Some hats will be heavily tapered – small crown and wide brim – while others lightly tapered – the crown and brim are practically the same size and match up.
Selection
Guys, pay close attention because this is where things can go horribly wrong. When choosing a hat consider the shape of your face, your complexion, the outfit you’ll be matching it with and the material the hat is made of. Just like with clothes, men should apply the same rules when selecting headgear. “A lot of guys buy hats too big and look like a kid wearing their father’s hat,” says Derek Roche, personal stylist to Sean “Diddy” Combs. Roche stands by “fit and style” when choosing the right shape and style of hat. “Make sure it fits the aesthetic of your clothes. You’re not going to wear a New York Yankee fitted cap with a Dior suit.” Unless, of course, you’re Russell Simmons.
Shape
Round Faces
If you have a round face, you want a hat to add some length, not make your mug look rounder. You would look your best with a hat that has a medium crown and medium taper. The band should be thin and contrast in color. This combination will provide a slim look and even add some height. The brim should be slight to moderate in width in order to contribute to the elongation.
Long or Thin Faces
If your dome is on the long or thin side stay away from square crowns and go for a small to medium crown and taper also go wide with the band. This will help give your face a more compact look. Opt for a moderate to wide brim to help reduce the vertical look.
Square Face
Square faced/jawed gents should pick a medium to full crown with virtually no taper and the brim should be wide. These cuts should add some curvature to your mug and make it appear less boxy.
Complexion
Just like suits, men of any complexion can often get away with a basic black or grey hat and they will blend in just fine. That being said, some colors do compliment some particular complexions. If you have a fair or pale complexion, rock the aforementioned dark blue or grey. Men with a more olive or tan complexion can experiment with browns, greens and other similar earth tones. Men with a dark or deeper complexion can work browns and blues.
Material and Matching
Let the season and occasion be your guide when selecting material. Spring and summer months lend themselves to straw toppers that let the head breathe in that summer heat. They are also acceptable for more casual events like that wedding, pool party or rooftop happy hour. Once you get into the fall and winter, it’s best to go the felt or wool route since it will provide more warmth. These types of fedoras are also more widely accepted at formal events or work related occasions (provided you like to channel your inner Don Draper). Finally, don’t underestimate complimenting your hat with your clothes. Hats in various shades of brown will compliment brown, green and even dark blue shirts, suits and coats; grey hats work well with blues, blacks and greys; and blue hats work well with blues and greys.