As the renaissance in classic men’s style continues seemingly unabated, various accessories that enjoyed their heyday during the 1920s – widely considered the golden age of men’s style – have enjoyed newfound popularity as sartorially-inclined caballeros continue to rebel against frat-boy fashions in the age of business casual. While single-breasted peaked lapel and double-breasted suits make a bold statement, the tie-clasp, also known as the tie-clip or tie-bar is a small piece of men’s jewelry that can subtly enhance the appearance of the suit while simultaneously announcing that here is a man who cares about the details.
Purpose & Nuance
The basic role of the accessory is to prevent the tie from flapping around. At the same time, it also acts to maintain the tie’s arch at the neckline. Beyond the tie clip’s utility, it can also spice up otherwise mundane attire. As Alan Flusser noted in his definitive work on men’s style, Dressing The Man, tie-clip enthusiasts will angle the clip downward for a more casual look (remember, the more angled the clasp, the less formal it will appear to be). For the shorter man, the tie-clip helps to divert attention from the fact that he may have to tuck the tie into his pants. As narrower ties have come into fashion, it makes perfect sense to find the tie-clip enjoying a resurgence. Its decline as a well-regarded accessory in the 1960s was largely due to the popularity of the wider tie during that era – the tie-bar was no longer centered once it was clipped to the shirt. With straighter, narrower ties now coming to the fore, the tie-clip makes more sense than ever as a stylish accessory that will be the finishing touch on your sartorial statement.
Styles
As with most accessories there are a number of variations, but can basically be broken down into two categories.
Tie-Clasp
The distinguishing feature is you guessed it, the clasp which clips a tie to the dress shirt, ensuring the tie hangs straight and keeps it secured through most situations. The tie-clip should be placed approximately two-thirds of the way down the front of a necktie.
Tie-Slide
The tie slide differs from the tie-clasp in that it lacks the clasp feature, rather than clipping the tie to the dress shirt, it simply holds them together in much the way a paper-clip would.
Some Extra Tips
Generally speaking, the tie-clip will usually be made of metal with an eye-catching pattern or plain design. As with most men’s clothing, the plainer the tie-clip the more suitable it will be for formal events. The more intricate the design, the more casual the tie-clip will become. Once upon a time, the decorative pattern on the clip denoted membership or affiliation with an organization – however, nowadays most people are unfamiliar with the military aspect, so just look for a design or pattern that catches your eye.
Tie clips vary in styles and price, primarily due to composition. Clips with a gold or silver “effect” – meaning the tie clip is not made from sterling silver or solid gold – will usually be significantly less expensive. Generally speaking, most men’s shops will feature a wide range of tie-clips. One popular style is the silver and gold “engine-turned” tie clip that can be engraved with your initials. However, for sterling silver or solid gold clips, generally be prepared to pay upwards of $100.00.
For something with a little more flair, consider going vintage. Thrift shops have loads of tie-clips in stock at bargain prices. With some stock dating back to the golden age of the tie-bar, you’re bound to find a tie-clip with some character and maybe worth more than you bargained for. In style terms think of it as stumbling upon that Roberto Clemente or Fernando Valenzuela rookie card at a garage sale.